As I’ve done a few other times this year, our officially suggested prompt for the month is going out the window so that I can talk about what’s really on my mind, and like February, this will not be without political opinion – please be advised, and if you are one of my supporting congregations and are making my updates available to the congregation members, feel free to substitute this one for a funny blog entry with photos of the kids at
Monday, June 30, 2008
June Newsletter
Friday, June 27, 2008
Coming to a newspaper near you...
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/7469731.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7475546.stm
Oil/gas discoveries seem to be following me on my international sojourns; Ghana, too, discovered a sizeable offshore oil field not too long after my time there. If YOU are from a small country looking for another exploitable resource and would like me to come visit you as a talisman, let's talk. C'mon, Guinea-Bissau...you know you want me.
But seriously, these two stories are both good in that some much needed money and economic opportunities are entering the picture for Uruguay, and that, hey, we're getting some attention. On the flipside, there is no national economic combination worse than lack of domestic ownership of land plus natural resources of high value and demand...look at what caused the Mexican Revolution, after all. There's always the aspect of corruption and social transformation, too - would Nigeria be so marked bycorruption and violence if it weren't for its enormous oilfields? What, too, about safeguarding the not-perfect-but-improving government services and sense of social equity that is a trademark of Uruguay? Other countries whose economies revolve around agriculture and/or exploitation of high-value natural resources are a mixed bag - one on hand, you have Norway (which pretty much defines "high standard of living and stability with incredible public access to services"), and on the other you have Bolivia (as I read in Las Venas Abiertas de América Latina, "Bolivia had the cow, but everyone else in the world got the milk"). Food for thought.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
My kids
This was, minus the captioning, ready to go up last weekend, but I got busy and then went to Resistencia in northern Argentina to hang out with some pretty cool people for our closing retreat - all 6 of us in Argentina and Uruguay are rapidly approaching our leave dates, and this was pretty much the last time all of us could leave our sites before departure.
Rather than dwell on that, however, we've got a HAPPY picture post to caption, this time of 50 or so of the world's coolest inhabitants - the students of Centro de Estudios and the children of Club de Niños!
1. Giselle (left) and Abigail (right). If Abi looks familiar, it's because she was in Club de Niños last year; she's the only one of the 5 who "graduated" from Club de Niños who I've seen on an equally regular basis this second half of the year. These two very often come for English help, with a generous amount of other subjects mixed in, too.
2. Gimena is in her second year of secondary school and has come a long way, at the very least with her English, from last year when we first started working together. I've also gotten to explain Renaissance art and architecture and the Reformation to her - two of my favorite things!
3. Lucila, one of the nicest, calmest students imaginable. She's a great worker.
4. Cecilia is one of the students at the new secondary school in the barrio; from her, I've gotten to hear about the long and difficult process of looking for teachers, managing students new to secondary study, and doing these things in one of the city's poorest neighourhoods from someone who's seen it firsthand. She's a great English and sciences student.
5. The new accreditation class; this is for adolescents and adults who were unable to finish primary school, and upon completion of the class and a basic skills exam, they'll receive credit for the first 6 years of the educational process. There are currently 4 youths (ages 14-17) in the class; here are two of them, along with their teacher, Nellida.
6. The reclusive cook, Ana, captured again in her natural habitat, this time while making sauce for pizza....mmmmm.
7. It was a chilly day, so Emilia brought her earmuffs....she was not the only one to wear them, however. Even Fabiana, one of the teacher's aides, decided to fight the good fight against chilly earlobes.
8. Whip out a camera, and watch how they all react - laughing, smiling, or looking away, they all still want to be in a picture...
9. The day's activities involved the kids being blindfolded and touching various items, then having to guess what they were. This how my scarf ended up wrapped around Iara's head - note Viviana's glam pose (scarf-blinded and all) and Karen's "why are you putting this on film?" look.
10. Not everyone had a scarf or school uniform ribbon, however...fortunately, the kids are nothing if not creative...
11. The items to feel were selected from outside, and involved all kinds of stuff, including a broken broomstick, an empty tank of some sort, and what looked a bit like a toilet lid.
12. Emilia (kneeling) helped some of her friends' dreams take flight...literally. Giuliana wanted to "fly" (balance on one foot on an old stump with her arms out like wings), so Emilia spotted for her while Michaela waited patiently for her turn to fly.
13. The adults (plus a few kids) enjoying a few minutes of break-time peace while the kids play.
14. Monica is not normally a part of my afternoons, but is around every morning as the coordinator for Casa Jóven and Centro de Estudios. She's a big joker, and it took her a while to pick up on my sense of humor and tendency to say absolutely ridiculous things in a serious tone - she even told me once that she never knew if I was joking or not, or if I even caught jokes, just because I was so serious. Please hold the laughter, folks from back home. She figured me out shortly thereafter.
15. Kirsten, Milton, and Fabi hold back a flood of kids excited about having music class with the best Uruguayan/Estadounidense teaching duo EVER. Or at least that's what I tell myself.
16. We did the same activity with the little ones, who were (go figure) calmer...but when you have sweethearts like Sofia (pink scarf) and Leticia (blue ribbon as blindfold), it really isn't any wonder why.
17. They were so calm and sweet that we even got to do the second part of the activity - feel the hand and guess the person! Kimberley did, if I remember right, guess "Ana Karen" on the second try.
18. After snack time, the kids help clean up, even the littlest ones...Ana opted to wipe down the tables.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
MonteDVD - It's Uruguay updated for the 21st century!
So, if I haven't said lately that I love Montevideo and that it's easily my favorite place that I've lived, let me reiterate that point. Today, a tribute - a week's worth of shots taken along La Rambla, at the Museo de la Memoria, El Cerrito, and Bulevar José Battle y Ordoñez (aka Bulevar Propios), the street I go down every day on the 145 bus on my way to and from work.
1. Playa Buceo is the closest beach to my house...I normally go to Pocitos when I'm in a beach mood because I like the walk there better, but Buceo's nice, too. It lies along La Rambla, the 26-Km of beach, footpath, and street that run along the Rio de la Plata in Montevideo.
2. Buceo from the other end of the beach - note the faint white dot, a sailboat.
3. Playa Malvin is the next one down from Buceo; they're separated by a rock formation that juts out into the water. Malvin's got really nice sand, and also an island offshore...the island made an appearance in the lyrics of Queso Magro's murga act this past Carnaval!
4. Montevideo has two great scenic outlooks - one faces the harbor and old city, and the other, Punta Gorda, faces La Rambla...and it's a great view.
5. The vista also features a somewhat-odd looking monument to fallen seamen.
6. The other direction - Playa Verde and Carrasco.
7. Montevideo is arguably the best city for architecture in Latin America - this is a stretch of houses at Punta Gorda that I like, if just for their stylistic diversity.
8. El Museo de la Memoria, intentionally/ironically located in the former estate of a military strongman, is dedicated to telling the story of the human rights abuses of the military government of '73-85...the first democratically-elected president after the military government was sworn in 10 days after I was born.
9. In front of the museum, there are pictures on the pavement devoted to the theme of the "desaparecidos" - people who "disappeared" during the dictatorship and are now beginning to "reappear" on shallow graves on military bases. Uruguay, being much smaller than Argentina, had a lower number of desaparecidos (between 200 and 300; in Argentina, there were over 30,000), but the highest percentage of citizens jailed by the government of any of the Latin American dictatorships in the '70s-'80s- at least 7,5000, probably more, in a country with a population of 3.3 million.
10. Read it and weep...I did. Keeping in mind the previous caption, I'll just say that a major point of this paragraph is to combine the phrases "death squads," "supported by," and "government of the United States of America."
11. The theology of glory in a world of the cross - the enormous Church of the Sacred Heart on top of El Cerrito, towering over a fairly poor neighborhood. I can see the church for much of my daily bus ride to and from La Obra.
12. Close-up of the church.
13. The bus stops generally come with ads - this one is a Health Ministry informative ad about condoms..."Do it well, use a condom."
14. One of the main technical schools in the city.
15. The Police Hospital.
16. And THIS is why I've never been tempted to break into any warehouses...you see a LOT of guard dogs in this city.
17. The big milk processing plant...this is an industrial zone of the city.
18. The 145, which I take every day...and yes, the destination is "Colon"...it's Spanish for "Columbus."
19. Leftist political graffiti, which can be seen all over the city...this one is calling for the repeal of the law granting immunity to those involved with the human rights abuses mentioned above.
20. Il Mondo della Pizza, a block from my house - REALLY good pizza and fainá.
21. The fruit stand on the corner where I catch the bus every day.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
They came from afar
I am convinced that I have one of the most surreal lives on this planet. Last week’s proof: the visit of the Tahitians.
Monday, June 9, 2008
The Polenta Variations
For those of you who might not be familiar with polenta, it is a northern Italian dish, made from cornmeal, that is most typically eaten as a kind of thick porridge, most often with marinara sauce. but not always. You can, however, take the polenta in porridge-ish form, add whatever else you like to it, and bake or fry it, or you can make it into a dessert by cooking it with milk and sugar instead of water. If you are a Texan, think "grits," and you will have a reasonably good, although not perfect, idea of what polenta is. It is extremely popular in Uruguay during the winter, since...
1. Roughly half of Uruguayans claim Italian descent, and most of those can trace their roots to northern Italy - Piemonte, Lombardia, and Liguria (Genova).
2. It's cheap - all you need is cornmeal, or instant polenta for those times when you want it NOW
3. It's cold and damp, and there's nothing quite like hot polenta to fill you up.
It is so popular, in fact, that there are even kiddie songs involving polenta, and it has worked its way into Uruguayan slang...if you want to tell the kids to sing with gusto, a nice "ay, chicos, por favor - con polenta!" will get your point across.
So, polenta has essentially taken over my life from all possible angles. If the spring and summer were my "1000 things to do with rice" kitchen era, the late fall and winter are looking to be "1000 ways to make polenta." Here are three quick and easy ways to experience the joy that is polenta. I say quick - they're quick and easy if you're using instant polenta. If you're going at it with cornmeal, you'll be stirring the polenta slowly and constantly for about an hour - if you can't find it instant, you might want to invite a friend over to take a turn stirring...just call it bonding time. Oh, and other caveat - if you like Fannie Farmer-esque precise measurements, do not read on - I have not used a measuring cup in about a year and like it that way.
-POLENTA CON TUCO-
The classic. You'll need, to feed two:
2 cups instant polenta or cornmeal
6 cups-ish of boiling water - less water means thicker polenta, more water means thinner. A 2.5-or-3 to 1 ratio is the recommended rule of thumb. I personally go with 2.5.
salt and oil to taste
Bring the water to a boil, add quite a bit of salt and a fairly sizeable drizzle of (preferably olive) oil...the salt is needed for the taste, and oil helps with the consistency. If you're using instant, throw it in, take the water/polenta mix off the heat and stir it until it reaches a smooth consistency. If you're using cornmeal, have fun and try not to get tennis elbow.
Now, the tuco (sauce):
tomato sauce (of the variety that comes in cans or, in Uruguay, boxes and is just tomato in liquid form without anything extra...I'd use 350-500 mL)
1 small-to-medium onion, diced
1 clove of garlic
1 small-to-medium bell pepper, diced
1 can of tomatoes, diced (you can use fresh, too)
if they have these in the US, one Knorr's Flavor Cube (looks like a bouillon cube, but is seasonings rather than soup base)...I'd recommend Provençal, Garlic-Basil, Traditional Marinara...anything like that. If those haven't made it to the US yet, omit it and just add more of the following to compensate
black pepper
salt (only add this if you can't find the Flavor Cube)
rosemary
basil
oregano
Saute the onion, garlic, and bell pepper in a little bit of olive oil. Add flavor cube, cut up into little pieces (if applicable). Let the flavor cube pieces cook into the vegetables for a few minutes; add the liquid tomato. Add the canned tomato and other spices; let simmer for at least 20 minutes to combine all the flavors. Once the polenta is done, pour some sauce on top of it and buen provecho!
-POLENTA CON JAMÓN Y QUESO-
This one's even easier to make...this is definitely a Monday night meal, especially with instant polenta. Follow above directions for cooking the polenta, maybe adding some herbs this time, or substituting the salt for...a Knorr's Flavor Cube (I swear they're not paying me for the product placement). Then add finely diced or shredded cheese (maybe a 40/40/20 mix of Mozzarrella, Gruyere or other Swiss, and Parmesan or Romano), diced ham (cold cuts will work just fine), stir it until the cheese melts, and voila. In Uruguay, you can buy, for about $1.20, a small tray of already diced assorted cheese and lunchmeat in the supermarket - the portioning is about perfect for making this dish.
-POLENTA CON DULCE DE HIGO-
I get to claim this recipe as my own; this one isn't particularly traditional, but it is tasty - a nice cold weather dessert that's not overpoweringly sweet. The amount of polenta stays the same, as does the proportion of liquid, but instead of water, salt, and oil, you'll need:
milk
sugar - at least 1/3 cup; more if you want it really sweet.
2 good dashes of vanilla extract
Cooking method stays the same. Now, the fig part. You'll need:
several ripe figs, chopped
plenty of brown sugar
water - maybe 2/3-3/4 cup
aniseed, to taste
a dash of vanilla extract
Put the chopped figs in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the water, brown sugar, aniseed, and vanilla: simmer until the figs are falling apart and the water/sugar have turned into a relatively thick syrup...something like a runny jam. Pour the fig mixture over the polenta and enjoy.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
In which he goes there
Article obtained from http://www.defenselink.mil/releases/release.aspx?releaseid=11862
Note, also, the source of the news - this is the United States Department of Defense itself. This is not a rumor floating around the blogosphere, or something penned by Castro and distributed to scare other Latin American nations. Nope, this is the real deal. The United States has officially decided to return to gunboat diplomacy in Latin America. Words cannot express adequately how simultaneously angry and terrified most of the people I know here are. These are people who've already lived through one brutal, repressive military government installed by the U.S. that did a very successful job of running Uruguay's economy into the ground, and to them, the 4th Fleet represents the very real threat of another round of continent-wide brutal, repressive military government.
There is, and I have yet to confirm its validity, a document circulating which states flat-out that the U.S. government has officially stated its willingness to support military governments in the name of advancing its aims for Latin America. So much for the lofty goals of bringing democracy to the world that we heard all about in the march up to, and immediate aftermath of, the invasion of Iraq.
Of course, every government in South Americam, barring Colombia's, has had a cow over the past week, and the military chiefs of Mercosur (Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay, and Uruguay) plus Bolivia's had what boils down to a crisis conference in Brasilia to discuss the matter. The U.S. military's response: "It is not an offensive force in any way...The IV Fleet's entire purpose is cooperation, friendship, response to natural disaster, missions of peace and, yes, there will be counter narcotics work, as is traditional." (http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20080515/pl_afp/usmilitarynavylatam_080515224313)
My personal BS-o-meter went off the scale when I read that, barring the part about counter-narcotics. Friendship doesn't come in the form of battleships around here, cooperation generally suggests helping someone in a way that was asked for (ok, maybe Colombia asked for the help), there aren't any major natural disasters going on that a fleet of warships would be able to abate, and one person's "mission of peace" has a way of being another person's "war that obliterated my country" in this day and age.
Now, how about some other possible reasons for the re-deployment?
-Colombia's right-wing, pro-US, heavily US-funded government over 40-year struggle against leftist guerrilla groups. In fairness, the label "narcoterrorist" does fit them to a hefty extent, so a simplified view of them as noble idealists struggling against a foreign-backed oppressive government doesn't work. U.S. naval presence near Colombia facilitates aiding the Uribe government.
-Hugo Chavez. Chavez has done a remarkably good job of infuriating the White House since his near-removal from power by a U.S-backed military coup in 2002. I think Chavez is a corrupt brute and borderline dictator, but one can hardly blame him for not liking the U.S., at least since '02, just based on his personal history and there are a lot of people who find his economic reforms to be admirable, if not his methods of applying them.
-Connected to the above: Venezuela's oil. One of the world's largest oil producers is just across the Caribbean from the U.S., but with Chavez holding back on production and sales to the U.S., its proximity isn't doing much to the help with North American fuel prices.
-The convenient excuse. Colombia is on the brink of war with Venezuela and Ecuador; Colombia has taken to crossing the borders with its neighbors to get at guerrillas hiding there (who are, admittedly, backed by Ecuador and Venezuela), and (not surprisingly) Ecuador and Venezuela aren't thrilled about having Colombian troops and planes enter their countries uninvited. This would be akin to the Mexican military crossing over into Texas, "just for a few isolated, surgical strikes," to take out enemies of the state. Chavez made moves to deploy the military to the Colombian border, an emergency summit was held, both sides agreed to be calm and respectful...and Colombia's still doing it.
-The rest of the region. Since kicking repressive, U.S.-installed-and-backed military governments to the curb in the 1980s and 1990s, South America has been trying to find new ways to do things, especially after the old ways really took a blow in the continent-wide economic crisis of 2001-2002. Argentina and Brazil officially gave the finger to the IMF (which is a tool of US/Western European aims at controlling the world economy to the sole benefit of the US, Canada, and Western Europe), and since 2002, every country, except Colombia, has elected leftist governments on the continent. And...they've made progress. Standards of living are up, economies are growing. It's not all roses yet, but things are improving...but nobody but Colombia is paying court to the U.S., cutting trade deals that benefit U.S. business and no one else. Accordingly, democractically elected leaders, such as Evo Morales in Bolivia and Luiz Lula da Silva in Brazil, have been painted by the U.S. government as villianous, dangerous threats to regional security. What better away to "teach Latin America to elect good men!" (in the words of Woodrow Wilson) than send a fleet down this way to monitor them?
This is going to precipitate, at the very least, a diplomatic crisis, if not a regional war. There is no way that the presence of the 4th Fleet will make the hemisphere safer for anyone, and it is only serving to confirm the convictions of everyone in the Americas who does not have U.S. citizenship that the United States has no interest in friendly relations with anyone, not even its neighbors, if being friendly means not getting its way with everything. This is imperialism. It is the use of force to shove a political agenda down the throat of another continent...and this time, I don't think the U.S. will be able to get away with it. The war in Iraq, beyond its cost in human lives and money, has lost all international respect for the United States - simply put, we don't have many friends. Now, in Latin America, a region that lined up behind the U.S. to support us after 9-11-2001, rather than develop strong, reciprocally beneficial relations with free, democractic governments, we are poised to turn our next-door neighbors into our enemies. Real national security doesn't come from scaring the bejesus out of South America; it comes from being willing to compromise with nations who do not hold ill-will toward you and work for the good of both rather than just your own good, and from that put pressure on the ones who do have it out for you.
Please, if you are from the United States and reading this, even if you think I am a complete liberal, unpatriotic, commie pinko traitor for daring question our national motives, help me get the word on this out. Write to your newspaper. Tell other people. Make this known, so that at the very least we're informed.
Links you should check out:
http://www.fpif.org/papers/latam2003.html http://www.globalpolitician.com/21668-foreign-latin-america